Some things in life are simply unavoidable – among them getting older. And with age, it becomes increasingly likely that women will experience some degree of hair thinning. In fact, while many associate hair loss with men, it’s a significant reality for South African women; clinical data suggests that approximately 40% of women in South Africa will experience noticeable hair thinning or loss by age 50.
But perhaps the worst part is this: The list of potential causes is lengthy (the underlying culprit can be anything from stress, autoimmune conditions, styling habits which affect roughly one in three South African women, or just plain ol’ genetics, to name a few) and the most effective solutions such as topical minoxidil, at-home red light therapy devices and in-office treatments like platelet-rich plasma injections often take months to yield noticeable results.
Meet the experts: Marylle Koken, is a celebrity hair stylist and creative ambassador for the haircare brand Sebastian Professional. Nicolas Flores is a celebrity hairstylist and co-owner of the hair salon FLORE Los Angeles.
The Mane Attraction
At Women’s Health, we understand that your hair can play a major role in how you feel about yourself. So we consulted experts for advice on managing hair loss and have some good news: You don’t have to settle for thin locks and let your confidence take a blow while you play the waiting game. Instant fixes for thinning such as strategic hair cuts, styling techniques and even certain products can help make strands appear temporarily thicker when you’re in a pinch, according to hairstylists.
Manage your expectations: The keyword here is temporary since these solutions won’t fundamentally change how your hair grows out your head. However, in combination with long-term treatments that do the heavy lifting, these stylist-approved fixes can provide instant gratification when you’re looking to achieve thick, lush-looking locks. Let’s dive in.
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Get A Haircut
For many women dealing with thinning, a haircut can feel counterproductive. After all, Marylle Koken, says she has clients who feel compelled to count practically every strand on their head. And when you already feel like you don’t have enough hair to work with, making what you do have shorter than it already is can just feel… wrong.
But when executed correctly, certain cuts can create the illusion of more density, volume and texture. Here are a few options:
Face-Framing Layers
Female-pattern hair loss, a condition otherwise known as androgenetic alopecia, is the most common cause of thinning among women, according to the National Library of Medicine. This type of hair loss tends to crop up around the temples and hairline first and layers tend to be a go-to solution since they, by definition, involve cutting hair at different lengths which stops the hair from lying flat near the root and adds extra body and movement.
But face-framing layers are particularly strategic for creating the illusion of thickness because they “create soft pieces that fall right over the temples, an area that’s often sparse or see-through, while also ensuring you don’t thin out the hair in these spots,” explains Nicolas Flores. Translation: They give an extra boost of thickness to areas of hair most notorious for thinning.
This type of layer works on any hair texture and is an especially apt option for those wanting to maintain some length, experts say. But the key to making the style shine is keeping the rest of your hair (meaning the sections that don’t immediately surround the face) the same length to create a fuller appearance around the perimeter of the cut, Flores adds.
A Blunt Bob
One factor that can make thinning hair more obvious to the eye is when strands look wispy and sparse toward the ends, but fuller near the root. If you’re open to rocking a shorter style, both Flores and Koken are big fans of a blunt bob since it eliminates the thin ends altogether by cutting them off. “It’s one of the most reliable cuts for making hair look instantly thicker,” says Flores. “The only thing you can see is the part,” Koken adds. The striking and bold nature of the style can also help detract from any thinning, Flores adds.
To maximise the illusion of thickness, the bob should ideally sit right at the chin, helping to create a sharp edge that concentrates the most dense, thick-looking part of the hair along the bottom of the style, Flores explains. The only con? Bobs aren’t always the best bet for textured hair since curls make it more difficult to achieve that blunt edge, he adds.
A Shaggy Fringe
Curly girls: Don’t fret – this one’s for you. Styling naturally curly and wavy textures with a shag haircut and fringe bangs is perfect for creating the appearance of density, Koken says.
Once you’re sat in your stylist’s chair, ask for plenty of layers throughout the midsection and top of the hair. This creates texture and movement while allowing the strands to separate and lift away from each other – giving the hair more volume and body. The layers of a shag also work to camouflage thinning hair near the crown of the head, Koken explains.
Meanwhile, a fringe cut works to mask receding hairlines while adding an effortless, cool-girl vibe to your overall appearance. So consider the combination of the two the perfect one-two punch for masking hair thinning.
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Style Smartly
Think of a new cut as laying the foundation for thicker-looking hair. How, exactly, you style it can further elevate your results. Even the most flattering cuts can fall flat over time, but small styling tweaks can make all the difference.
Even if chopping off inches isn’t in the cards right now, these simple strategies can be enough to make thinning hair look noticeably fuller and thicker on their own. Here’s what to consider:
Adjust your part
We all know that Generation Z loves a centre part, a trend that has gained popularity to the chagrin of those who love to sport the Millennial side part. And although splitting your hair down the middle is great for emphasising facial symmetry, the side part reigns supreme when it comes to masking thin hair.
If you’re a chronic centre part wearer, don’t be afraid to experiment with alternatives: “Moving the part around can help break up visible thinning patterns,” Flores explains, adding that “switching to a side part forces the hair to go against its natural fall. This creates lift at the roots, especially at the crown, where thinning is often most noticeable.”
Plus, a side part works for any hair texture. It gives fine hair (which tends to collapse easily) extra lift, while enhancing the natural movement of waves and curls, Flores says.
Add texture
If you’re a fan of curling, crimping, or diffusing your hair – you’re in luck, because “any kind of texture makes hair look fuller,” Koken says. Picture straightened hair strands compared to hair that’s been curled and then brushed out – the latter fluffs up, Koken explains. You can use that “fluff” to your advantage since it increases volume, obscures visibility of the scalp and, in turn, makes thinning less obvious.
You can achieve added texture through regular heat styling with tools such as curling wands, crimpers, air stylers and barrel wavers. Just be sure to use a daily heat protectant as well to prevent damage, experts say. (In fact, it’s best to use heat protectant daily, even if you wear your hair naturally.)
But using heat to manipulate the hair day in and day out isn’t for everyone. If you’re looking for longer-term results that require less maintenance on your end, consider getting a perm – a semi-permanent hair treatment that uses chemicals to adjust your hair’s natural texture, instead, Koken suggests.
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Wear a low bun
Pulling your hair up and back into a high ponytail, bun, or half-up, half-down style is a guaranteed way to put noticeable thinning spots on blatant display, especially when it comes to problem areas like the temples and hairline, experts say.
If your goal is volume and thickness, consider parting your hair, tucking both sides behind the ears, and sporting a loose low bun or ponytail. Those types of styles help hide thinning spots, while still keeping your hair out of your face. And better yet: It’ll help you appear sophisticated and elegant, too, Koken says.
Consider Volumising Products
I hate to break it to you, but there is no such thing as a magic bullet hair product that will regrow your hair overnight. But there are some choices you have to further camouflage thinning. And they do particularly well when paired with some of the cuts and styles mentioned above. They can be thought of as like an effective (but short-lasting) band-aid and prove especially useful right before special occasions, says Koken.
Hair Fibres
For the uninitiated, hair fibre products are shaker bottles or sprays containing tiny keratin or cotton fibres that almost resemble a fine powder. When you sprinkle the fibres onto the hair, they physically cling to your own strands, making each one look thicker and fuller. They also help cover up sparse areas of the scalp. For those reasons, Flores is a big fan of the product category for those managing diffuse thinning all over the scalp, or for those with naturally fine hair. They’re also great for spot-targeting light thinning along the crown and temples, experts say.
For the most natural-looking effect, Flores recommends lightly applying hair fibre products to completely dry and styled hair. “Build gradually, rather than dumping too much in one area. Focus on the hair, not the scalp and aim for areas where there’s still some hair for the fibres to attach to,” he says. Afterwards, use a light mist of hairspray and do some soft, manual blending with your fingers to diffuse any overly concentrated spots.
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Root Touch-Up Sprays
These products are more often thought of as ways to cover unwanted grey hairs, but Flores says they can also conceal areas of visible scalp, especially when that visibility is due to thinning around the crown and temples. These products come in various forms, including permanent or semi-permanent dye kits, compact powders and root concealer sprays and sticks.
Spritz the product in short, controlled bursts rather than continuous spraying and spray slightly past the hairline or part, Flores explains. This creates a natural, diffused, shadow-like effect. You can also lightly brush out a bit of the product if the colour looks too heavy and then let it dry fully to prevent smudging.
When it comes to hair fibres and root touch-up sprays, the golden rule is generally less is more. “It’s easier to build than to fix over-application,” Flores adds. “The goal is to create a soft shadow and the appearance of density, not a solid block of colour.”
Volumising Stylers
Even changing up the formula of things you’re already using, such as your shampoo, conditioner, and leave-in products, can make a world of a difference. Consider avoiding products that are intended to deeply moisturise the hair (think: leave-in conditioners) because they can quickly weigh down your tresses and further exacerbate the appearance of thinning, Koken says.
Instead, look for lightweight, volumising formulas that add lift and body, she says. When it comes to shampoos, for instance, consider checking the ingredients label for peptides, which are small chains of amino acids that help strengthen fragile or brittle hair by filling in weak strands; as well as keratin, which also can promote a fuller appearance over time by reducing breakage. Foaming mousse products, meanwhile, often contain lightweight polymers that coat strands without weighing them down, and they concentrate on the roots of the hair, where the appearance of volume and density matter the most.
When you need thicker-looking hair like yesterday, here are some products that experts and Women’s Health editors love:
The Bottom Line
None of these tips and tricks will change the actual density of your hair, but that’s not really the point. Think of them as like tools in your arsenal: Ways to feel like yourself again on the days when your confidence needs a boost just as much as your hair does.
Hair thinning can feel frustrating and isolating, but the good news is you have more options than you might think. Even one or two of these tweaks can make a meaningful difference in how your hair looks and, more importantly, how you feel stepping out the door.
This article by Katie Mogg was originally published on Women’s Health US. Additional reporting and products added by the Women’s Health SA team.
