This Is What Causes Hyperpigmentation – And The Treatments You Need

Suffering with hyperpigmentation? Join the club. It’s incredibly common, so much so that many of your friends may be fretting about the same issue. But what causes hyperpigmentation? And what’s the best way to treat it?

Thankfully, science has come a looooong way and now, solutions abound. We’ve got the hyperpigmentation causes you might not be aware of, plus the perfect fix for your problem.

So what causes hyperpigmentation?

Unlike paler complexions, olive skin has a built-in SPF of about seven, so wrinkles typically stay away until you’re into your 40s or 50s (although experts still advise slapping on SPF each day). The not-so-great news is that mid-level pigmented skin ages differently.

“This skin is prone to melasma,” says cosmetic doctor Rabia Malik. These brown patches of pigment often appear on the cheeks, chin and forehead and are prevalent in women in their mid-30s, who are 10 times more likely to suffer than men. “These darker patches have been proven to add about six years to our perception of someone’s age,” says Malik. “Erase them and it’s like turning back the clock.”

Sun exposure also causes hyperpigmentation

Sun exposure is one cause. It’s a completely natural process: skin has built-in sun protection (melanin), which reproduces when exposed to the sun as a protection measure. But there are other processes involved that can create an overproduction of melanin, leading to uneven patches of skin. Those include inflammation, hormones, genetics, age and any skin injuries, per Southside Dermatology. Medications can make your skin extra sensitive to the sun, leading to hyperpigmentation.

That’s part of the reason that always applying SPF – even when it’s cloudy and rainy – is important.

Hormonal imbalances can cause hyperpigmentation

Studies show hormones can also cause hyperpigmentation. “With mid-level pigment, a scratch or an eye-watering wax can cause a dark mark,” says Malik. It can also happen during pregnancy – the increased production of oestrogen and progesterone can create skin changes, including darker spots.

If dark hyperpigmentation patches are not already a problem, spot-apply brightening products – but only until you have a uniform skin tone.

Hero ingredients to combat hyperpigmentation

When shopping for skincare, look to these ingredients which help to even out skin tone. They work in different ways, so combine ingredients for best results (more on that below).

Vitamin C

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is rich in antioxidants that fight free radicals. Free radicals work to age the skin, while vitamin C actively works against this. It also inhibits melanin production in the skin, which, over time leads to an even skin tone.

Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid doesn’t get nearly enough attention for all it can do. First off, it’s good for sensitive skin and targets red marks, rosacea and hyperpigmentation. And, it’s great at treating acne. In one study, people with hyperpigmentation added a cream with 20% azelaic acid into their routine. “Following a 24-week treatment period, azelaic acid produced significantly greater decreases in pigmentary intensity,” the authors noted.

Kojic acid

This ingredient, when used consistently for a few months, can yield great results when it comes to dark marks. It works by inhibiting melanin production and is a potent antioxidant.

In one small study of 12 people, scientists found “kojic acid reduces skin discolouration by increasing skin brightness in 75% of patients tested, reducing skin contrast in approximately 83% and increasing skin homogeneity in approximately 67% of patients.” These results are significant, but it’s good to note that 3% kojic acid solution was used and in this study, all participants were white (between 2 and 3 on the Fitzpatrick phototype). That’s not to say it won’t work for darker skin tones: experts agree this is a great solution.

Licorice

This plant-derived compound has an active ingredient, glabridin. Studies show that glabridin prevents UVB-induced pigmentation and has anti-inflammatory effects on the skin. Licorice also works to inhibit the production of melanin and decreases free radical production in the skin.

Niacinamide

A part of vitamin B3, this ingredient works wonders. It fights the skin ageing process, mitigates environmental damage and tightens skin.

For hyperpigmentation, niacinamide works by inhibiting melanin production. In clinical trials, using 2% niacinamide for four weeks yielded reduced hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness.

Arbutin

You’ll find this ingredient in exfoliants and serums and it’s great at targeting hyperpigmentation. It works by diminishing the activity of an enzyme, tyrosinase, that assists in the melanin-production process.

Try these radiance boosters

To help erase hyperpigmentation, get a serum that delivers a powerful antioxidant shot to counteract signs of UV and environmental damage, including hyperpigmentation and intrinsic skin ageing. Vitamins C and E help by reducing pigmentation, stimulating collagen production and improving fine lines and wrinkles.

This is packed with skin-brightening ingredients like vitamin C and turmeric.

R240 at Faithful To Nature

This potion gently removes dead skin cells while boosting radiance and fighting dryness.

R1 750 at Dermastore

Turmeric, arbutin and ferulic acid combine to fight hyperpigmentation while soothing the skin.

R1 080 at Dermastore

Add a complexion balancer

Balancing skin care includes things that enhance your skin barrier, exfoliate dead skin cells and create a happy balance where imperfections are less likely to form. These products have your back.

Chemical exfoliation removes dead skin cells that cause uneven, rough, bumpy skin. This one is gentle to use on sensitive skin, too.

R495 at Clarins

This carefully curated range works to moisturise, prevent imperfections and gently exfoliate.

R590 at Edgars

This alpha arbutin serum works to minimise melanin production and treat those dark patches.

R129 at Fundamentals

Get a double-duty SPF

SPFs – sunscreen – remain the holy grail in skincare, for any concern. That’s because UV exposure (from the sun and tech) ages the skin and causes other imperfections. These SPFs, however, are special: they work harder to protect from UV rays and repair and reverse damage.

This fluid hydrates the skin while offering triple anti-ageing properties.

R614 at Clicks

Made specifically for problem pigmentation, this has brightening properties.

R565 at Dermastore

With Thiamidol®, a patented ingredient, dark marks are given the boot.

R380 at Dis-Chem

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