Nights out, beach days, luncheons or insta-perfect moments, your eye game needs to keep up (subtly or not so subtly). But before you reach for just any tube of mascara, here’s a little secret: it’s not just the formula that matters – it’s the brush. The truth? Not every mascara can do everything… and that’s actually a good thing.
Meet The Expert: Shirley Molatlhegia, Johannesburg-based beauty and make-up expert.
“No single mascara can do it all,” agrees Molatlhegia. “They all have different brush shapes and formulas, from waterproof to serum-infused. Some are amazing at lengthening but won’t give you much curl, while others add tons of volume and separation but don’t really stretch the lashes.”
Why You Should Use Different Types Of Mascara Brushes?
Think of mascara wands like make-up brushes, you wouldn’t use the same one for every style. It depends on your lashes and what you want them to do. From fat, fluffy volume to clean, defined length, each formula and brush shape has its own superpower.
And the real secret beauty editors and experts swear by? Layering. “Layering really does make a difference if you want your best-looking lashes,” explains Molatlhegia. “The first coat gives lift, the second adds definition and the third adds volume. Apply in thin layers and don’t let your lashes dry between coats because that’s when clumping happens.”
READ MORE: Everything You Need To Know About Faux Lashes
How To Prep Your Lashes For Mascara
But before you even get to the fun part, lash prep is everything. “Sanitise your lashes to help avoid eye irritation,” advises Molatlhegia. “Whether or not you use an eyelash curler first (which you should also sanitise regularly, by the way), your best bet is to prep your lashes before applying mascara by cleansing them with a face cleanser or make-up remover.”
1. Moisturise lashes with castor oil to keep them soft and pliable.
2. Lift, shape and give structure to your lashes with an eyelash curler.
3. Keep lashes healthy and follicles unclogged with a lash comb.
READ MORE: When Is The Right Time To Throw Out Your Make-Up?
Which Mascara Brush Is Best?
To help you find your perfect match, we break down the best mascara wand shapes and what they can do for your lashes.
The Curved Brush
Try: Revlon Colorstay Full Time Mascara
Shaped like your lash line, this brush hugs every lash for an instant curl and lifting effect.
The problem: Your lashes are sparse. If you see a 1mm gap between each lash, they’re officially ‘sparse’. But don’t worry…
The weapon: A curve brush can reach your lashes at the root and extend to the tip for a curl-boosting finish.
Pro tip: “Get the wand close to your lash line and wiggle it at the base before lifting. This creates a tight line and fills in gaps for fuller-looking roots,” explains make-up artist Shirley Molatlhegi.
The Spiral Brush
Try: L’Oréal Paradise Mascara Extatic Black
This brush is best for building volume and evenly coating every lash.
The problem: You have straight lashes. Your lashes poke straight outwards; this means your cuticles lie flatter, making your lashes straighter. Thanks a lot, gene pool.
The weapon: A spiral brush grabs every tiny lash. It delivers buildable volume while lifting lashes beautifully
Pro tip: “Hold the wand at the lash tips for a few seconds. It’ll help curl your lashes as the mascara dries,” says Molatlhegi.
The Comb Brush
Try: Sisley So Intense N°3
This brush is best for separating and defining each lash. Excellent for that no-clump lash.
The problem: Lashes can easily lose their definition. And sometimes stubborn clumps of mascara make our lashes stick together too
Pro tip: “Comb/re-coat lashes while wet to get perfect fan out lashes, it will be difficult to comb once dried, says Molatlhegi.
The Ball Tip Brush
Try: Givenchy Phenomen’eyes Waterproof Mascara
This brush is best for precise application and reaching every corner lash.
The problem: Is your problem missed spots and uneven coverage? Not your fault, your inner and lower lashes are delicate, often skipped over by bigger brushes.
The weapon: A ball-tipped brush lets you coat even the tiniest lashes with accuracy. Use it to build definition on lower lashes or add extra drama to the outer corners. “Using the tip vertically will detail the outer lashes to achieve a lifted eye effect,” explains Molatlhegi.
The Cone Brush
Try: Essence Maximum Definition Mascara
This brush tapers from base to tip. Basically it gives X-mas tree vibes. Best for creating lift, elongated shape and definition.
The problem: None really, this is when you want a subtle, fanned-out finish.
The weapon: This brush allows you to load up the outer corners while precisely coating shorter inner lashes. The result? A lifted, cat-eye effect that elongates the eyes.
The Skinny Brush
Try: L’Oréal Telescopic Mascara
This brush is best for defining and lengthening short lashes.
The problem: Your lashes are short? Hard-to-reach? We get it. Most big, fluffy brushes miss them entirely. The tiny teeth untangle short, curly lashes
The weapon: “Try a slim, precise brush that coats every lash, from the root to the tiniest lashes and the lower lashes for flawless definition and added length,” says Molatlhegi.
Pro tip: “Use the tip of the wand to separate each lash for an open-eyed look,” explains Molatlhegi.
