How Skincare Experts Tackle Hyperpigmentation – And What Really Works

Hyperpigmentation is a prevalent skin concern, especially in South Africa, due to sun exposure (which exacerbates the visibility) and melanin-rich skin types (which are more prone). However, advancements in skincare have provided targeted solutions backed by scientific research and proven results. Today, hyperpigmentation treatment in South Africa has never been more affordable and accessible, with tons of serums, creams and tinctures on the market.

WH spoke to two leading voices in the industry: one, Shannon Dougall, founder of SKIN functional skincare, who battled hyperpigmentation and developed a range that helped her (and now thousands of others) reclaim their skin tone. The other is Dr Alek Nikolic, a renowned specialist in aesthetic medicine who is at the forefront of the latest developments in his field. Here, they break down what really works – from powerful actives to the humble SPF – and why ingredient knowledge is your best weapon for hyperpigmentation treatment.

Ready to learn how to treat hyperpigmentation the smart way? Here’s how the pros are doing it – and how you can too.

They Use Sunscreen Every. Single. Day.

When it comes to hyperpigmentation treatment, using SPF regularly cannot be overstated. “The biggest mistake I see is that people suffering from hyperpigmentation do not wear sunscreen every day throughout the year,” says Dr Nikolic. In fact, dermatologists agree that sunscreen is not only a tool for pigmentation prevention but also a treatment. Not only that, but sun exposure is a contributor to hyperpigmentation. “Sun-induced [hyperpigmentation] tends to be small and can vary in colour from tan, brown to dark brown, they usually are found on sun-exposed areas like the face, arms, hands, neck, chest, etc,” explains Dr Nikolic. And, word to the wise: SPF is not a dab, but two fingers of product.

READ MORE: This Is What Causes Hyperpigmentation – And The Treatments You Need

They Understand The Hyperpigmentation Triggers

As Dr Nikolic hinted, there’s more than one trigger for hyperpigmentation: sun, hormones and inflammation. “Inflammation induced [hyperpigmentation] tends to be found anywhere on the face or body following trauma or inflammation to the skin, such as a cut, acne, or rashes like eczema and dermatitis,” says Dr Nikolic. “The typical triggers for flaring hyperpigmentation are overly hot showers; saunas; humid, hot conditions; spending time on the beach – even under an umbrella, as the reflection from the sand and water worsen hyperpigmentation,” says Dougall. “As far as possible, I avoid these triggering factors in an effort to manage my hyperpigmentation.” Dougall herself suffered with hormonal dark marks from using contraception, but by understanding this and using targeted skincare, her pigmentation is now completely gone. Dougall uses glycolic acid (7%) with 2% resveratrol, 2% AHA and 0.2%  retinaldehyde to fight hyperpigmentation.

READ MORE: The Exact Steps – And Products – To Banish Dull, Dry Winter Skin

They Know How Hyperpigmentation Works

“Managing hyperpigmentation requires an understanding that some hyperpigmentation resides in the deep dermal layers of the skin where product is not able to penetrate,” explains Dougall. (In this instance, experts recommend professional approaches, like chemical peels – chat to your derm.) “Other hyperpigmentation resides in the epidermis, where product application will lighten the hyperpigmentation. Typically, our rule of thumb is if you are not seeing a difference in 3 months, this is indicative of deep dermal hyperpigmentation,” says Dougall. Her approach? Tackle the problem from multiple angles. “There are nine pathways in the development of hyperpigmentation – and the more of those pathways you can block, the better the results will be,” she says.

Your pigmentation type determines the treatment

“Generally speaking, hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage tends to have a better chance of clearance with lasers and chemical peels than the other two [inflammatory and hormonal],” says Dr Nikolic.

Treatment options for hyperpigmentation

Aside from actives, Dr Nikolic notes that needling devices help with dark spots, along with using retinol or exosomes during needling. For post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIHP) and melasma (hormonally induced dark marks), “the main goal is to lighten the dark marks versus permanently getting rid of them,” says Dr Nikolic. “One should rather approach these two as a management approach as opposed to getting rid of the pigmented marks.”

READ MORE: What To Do When Body Acne Strikes + The Best Products To Use

They Use The Right Ingredients

Understanding that managing dark spots is a long-term journey, using sunscreen and avoiding triggers is best practice, in addition to thoughtfully incorporating actives. These ingredients, recommended by both Dr Nikolic and Dougall, have been shown to work.

Vitamin C

In the morning, go for vitamin C. “Vitamin C has been shown to block new pigment from forming and it helps in lightening existing hyperpigmentation,” says Dr Nikolic. Plus, he adds, it also boosts your skin’s natural SPF!

Vitamin A

Retinol, or vitamin A, comes in many chemical forms, blends and applications. It works by increasing skin renewal, reducing the appearance of dark spots.

Exfoliating Cleansers And Solutions

“Alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic, citric, and lactic have been shown to help exfoliate the outer skin layers and help lighten hyperpigmentation,” says Dr Nikolic.